We decided to take the ferry from Split to Brač Island.
Tony attempted to pass the time by drawing in a sketchbook. This attracted the attention of some 10-year-old boys who hovered over him and then clapped every so often.
Once on the island, a bus hauled us to the other side, and we caught glimpses of lime and olive groves, goat herds and white stone quarries. Some of that stone has made its way across the globe and was used to build a certain residence at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington D.C.
We also got glimpses of things and places on the island that we wanted to avoid.
The Adriatic is colder than the eastern Mediterranean. A lot colder.
But, that didn’t stop us walking through the pine trees to discover hidden coves, or from snorkeling and swimming through schools of silver fish and finding chartreuse coral and black spiky urchins.
One afternoon, we came across a pair of young Slovakian hitchhikers who were sleeping under the pines. They kindly shared with us a few pulls off of a powerful bottle of homemade sherry. We found them again on our last day and left our snorkels and masks with them. They were so happy, it felt like Christmas.
The best stories rarely come with pictures.
So here are some sunsets.
As much as we were amazed by Dubrovnik, we had to get out of there as quickly as possible. It was just too much. Too many people crammed into a small area starts to feel like a box. A shiny, lovely box from which you can jump off into a perfect blue sea… but still a box. So we took the next bus up the Dalmatian coast.
The Roman Emperor Diocletian built his palace on the sea about 1700 years ago. Apparently at the time it was so beautiful that Diocletian actually voluntarily retired. He preferred to enjoy his gardens as a civilian so much that he rejected a later invitation to return to Rome to rule. Over time and the flux of empires, the palace was abandoned and then repurposed into a city. The city’s name has changed along the way, but today it goes by Split.
As you might expect a palace-turned-city to be, Split’s courtyards and alleys are just as picturesque and romantic and as you can imagine.
We loved the breakfast at this cafe so much, we went back several times.
It was easy to linger.
The view was worth the few extra kunas. Or, in this case, tunas. (Check out the two kuna piece on the left.)
Split’s Riva promenade was bumping every night, just like in Dubrovnik, but since it was outside the city walls, we didn’t get the same hemmed-in feeling.
Still, we were feeling the need to press on… maybe find an island somewhere?