Hiking in the Soča Valley

The Soča Valley in Slovenia has mountains and dark green forests, waterfalls and perfectly blue water and massive marble trout, wooden suspension bridges and World War I trenches, meadows full of horses and wildflowers, and pretty little church steeples would ring in town every 15 minutes.

Kobarid hiking map

Kobarid - from Memorial

hiking trail

dark woods

The Soča Valley.  You can see the WWI memorial on the hill in the foreground.

steep stairs

looking back up the stairs

Soča River - vertical

blue water




testing the water

river bend

marble trout

bee boxes

shed in a clover field

shady spot

colorful forest floor

wooden ledge

rock formation

Slap Kosjak

Slap Kosjak pool

rocky stream



little waterfall

Tolmin gorges

Tolmin Gorges

long bridge

sunlight in the gorge

Mossy tree

view of Tolmin





The Soča Valley.  Kobarid is the village on the upper left.

The Soča Valley.  Tolmin is the main villageon the left.

WWI trenches - open field

trenches - wire tunnel

flower in the trenches

more trenches

trenches - valley view

flower and spider

Nov 2012



Working for Our Dinner in Slovenia

While we were on the gorgeous (and hot and crowded and expensive) Croatian coast, we decided that we wanted our time in Slovenia to be something different.  We thought we wanted to be in a more rural setting, preferably in the mountains, and turned to HelpX.  Help X connects travelers with people like farmers, homesteaders and B&B owners who are willing to offer free room and board in exchange for half a day’s work.

Tony came across Marie’s profile while we were in Split.  Marie owns a guesthouse in Kobarid, in the Soča Valley in northwestern Slovenia near the Italian border.  The area was the site of one of the major WWI front lines, and is the setting of Hemingway’s A Farewell to Arms.  Nearly 100 years later, it’s hard to imagine a more peaceful place.

Kobarid in the valley

Napoleon bridge

Kobarid main square

Kobarid main street

Kobarid main street


Hemingway B&B room

Hemingway B&B terrace


Hemingway B&B back garden

Marie is also renovating a stone house in the outskirts of Livek, a village up a neighboring mountain.  Renovating is not quite the correct word.  The house itself was not salvageable, and only three walls of the former attached barn are being incorporated into the new structure.  Marie is doing a lot of the work herself, but also enlists a few friends, colorful contractors, and HelpXers along the way.


Marie and Andrej

Livek - front

Livek - front scaffolding

Livek - back door

Livek - top floor before apno-ing

The neighbors up at Livek had a flock of goats, which were a nice diversion. (Watch a little video of them.)


goat portrait

This particular goat reminded us of our dog, Ivan.  It was a girl, but we still decided to refer to her as Ivan.

Ivan the goat

Ivan was extra friendly.  Here she is, licking the camera.

Goat licking the camera

And the views from Livek were unbeatable.

Livek - master bedroom view

Livek neighbors

wildflowers and Mt. Krn

Mt. Krn at sunset

Mt. Krn saw its first snow of the season while we were there. Its peak is distinctively jagged due to wartime dynamiting.

Mt. Krn - first snow

Marie was more than fair about the amount of work expected in exchange for our cozy accommodation.  Some of it could be a little frustrating due to the unavailability of a wide range of tools or materials, but nothing that couldn’t be overcome by a little determination and extra sweat.

rubble removal

make way for conduit

Livek - 2nd floor

Livek - south wall

speckled Tony

Part of the deal was that Alicia would cook the evening meal for the three of us.  She enjoyed walking to the Mercato every day, picking out our food and cooking real full meals for the first time in months.

spaghetti and meatballs

ham and cabbage soup

We had pork chops with stewed apples and cabbage, chicken risotto, ham and cabbage soup, spaghetti and meatballs… lots of filling dishes that were perfect after a cold day up at Livek.  Or a day spent hiking all over the valley instead.  Marie treated us like friends and was good to make sure we saw everything the Soča Valley had to offer.

Nov 2012