A Few More Things to Say About Kutaisi

We would love to show you more photos of Kutaisi. It’s very photogenic with its Russian architecture, parks and monuments. It’s also getting a lot of attention and development money from President Saakashvili’s administration. Unfortunately, our camera broke during our dino expedition to Sataplia and we didn’t replace it until after we left Georgia two weeks later.

Huge billboard advertisement for a magazine

Walking through its bazaar was an intense sensory overload experience. Imagine the streets packed shoulder-to-shoulder; honking Ladas vainly trying convince the crowds to part; sparks screaming from a tool sharpener’s grinder; a chorus of fluffy chicks trampling each other in cardboard boxes; a butcher splitting a whole hog down the middle, its blood slippery and congealing in the dirt; tables groaning under overflowing crates of produce and sacks of spices; sweaty old men selling lighter fluid and shoelaces and prayer cards; beggar women, many with a babe at the breast, mumbling with palms outstretched; poultry and rabbits in various states of undress and dismemberment; women chatting with each other while casually dangling a live stew hen by its legs.

Walking down the hill to town

Old homes overhanging the Rioni River

The Rioni river that splits Kutaisi in two was raging with muddy force from daily thunderstorms. We crossed it by a swaying cable car that deposited us in a hilltop amusement park. In a section of the park away from the rides was a very sad bear, plopped down with its scruffy behind in an old tire. We fed him several apples and he seemed appreciative. I still feel sick to my stomach thinking about the look in his eyes and his tiny, filthy cage.

We spent quiet evenings on “our” porch at Giorgi’s Homestay, listening to the thunder and the rain pattering on the grapevines, and thinking about where we wanted to go next.


Dining room at Giorgi's

Our porch at Giorgi's

Aug 2012



Hey Look, Dinosaurs!

The flowers in the city center read I (heart) Kutaisi.

You might remember our post that talked a bit about the fact that most Georgians aren’t shy about staring. We experienced this to the max in Kutaisi (say koo-TIE-see).

Stairs leading to the park in Kutaisi

The Rioni River

While there, we planned to meet up with another Peace Corps volunteer, LaToya. She graciously invited us to dinner with a group of PCVs and TLGs (Teach and Learn Georgia – English teachers hired by the Georgian government). We had a great evening at the Mirzaani Brewery, meeting more volunteers and students who were practicing their English conversation skills.

We made plans with LaToya and another volunteer, Freddy, to split a taxi the following day and check out Sataplia Natural Reserve. Sataplia has nature walks through a Colchian forest, a glass-floored lookout over the Rioni river valley, fossilized dinosaur footprints, a large cave illuminated by color changing LED lights, and an animatronic t-rex. It’s a pretty nice park and definitely up to par with what you’d expect from an important state or national park in the US. Even the dinobots, which we expected to be something similar to what you’d find at Chuck E. Cheese, impressed the horde of schoolchildren that descended upon the park just after our arrival.

Kids walking the elevated walkways over the dinosaur footprint exhibit

Nature walk entrance


Sataplia Cave, in all its gaudy glory

Imagine for a minute, if you will, the sight of Tony, a blonde and bearded guy whose limbs and chest are colorfully illustrated; LaToya, an African-American woman with dreadlocks pulled into a thick ponytail; and Freddy, a Ugandan guy wearing a fedora, all wading through a sea of kids and chaperones whose experiences with people who look differently than them have been mostly limited to movies and TV.

Stares, whispers, and giggles spread through the group as kids nudged their friends and pointed in our direction. We were more popular and exotic than the rubbery stegosaurus, whose recorded moans went nearly unnoticed. Every ten minutes, a child or an adult would approach us and ask to take our picture. LaToya and Freddy were worn down by months of public scrutiny and politely declined. Tony would say yes. Then the hopeful photographer would hesitate, as if they suddenly realized that what they really wanted was a little inappropriate, but would again ask for a group photo, and walk back crestfallen when the other two again said no. They didn’t want a picture of just Tony.

We talked about it as we walked through the forest and along the limestone cliffs. We knew that for all their stares and whispers, the kids and all the locals that LaToya and Freddy encountered during their months in Kutaisi meant nothing unkind, and any actions that seemed racist were just rooted in innocent unfamiliarity. Because of this, you could easily say, “what’s the big deal? They mean no harm, just pause for a second and let them have their photo. At least they asked politely, instead of just taking the picture.” But they turned down the photos both because they wanted the kids to understand how to treat people with differences that they encounter in the future, and because everyone deserves the right to go about their daily business as part of the community, rather than as an object of curiosity.

Tony doesn’t mind the occasional polite photo request, but maybe it’s different for someone whose “otherness” was intentional. Or maybe it’s less about types of “otherness” and more about the individual and what they bring to and take from the situation. Or maybe (probably) comparing and contrasting tattoos and skin color is just clouds the issue. These things aren’t always fun or comfortable to talk about, and neither of us feel very qualified to do so, but talking about it is a good thing; it increases understanding and empathy.

Here's to hoping that the materials and construction standards were of the highest quality

Sataplia overlook

Towards the end of our hike, we found the path to the lookout, and shuffled onto the glass floor. The park ranger provided big over-the-shoe slippers to prevent damage to the (already thoroughly marred) glass. The kids found a better use — running around to build up some static then zapping each other. Dangerous on a glass skywalk? Not if they’re wearing the slippers. As they were leaving, one brave kid reached over and zinged Tony before he could turn around and see which one it was. They all laughed (including Tony) and scampered off.

The four of us never did get a group photo. Sataplia was cool, but we’re really glad to have a day of meaningful conversations with two great people. Thanks, friends!

LaToya, Tony and Freddy hiking at Sataplia

Aug 2012



Public Transportation: A Slice of Georgian Life

Some of my more vivid Georgia memories are related to transportation. We took few pictures NO pictures (sad face) of the gorgeous fields and mountains and rivers that flashed past the windows or of our fellow passengers, but the mental images remain clear.

After a laid-back time in Akhaltsikhe, it was time to hit the road again. Sean and McKinze were busy wrapping up their last weeks of Peace Corps service and we had probably already stayed longer in Akhaltsikhe than any other tourist, ever. So, yet another trusty marshrutka hauled us through the mountains to Kutaisi, Georgia’s second largest city and new home to its parliament. We had the phone number of LaToya, another PCV, and were going to meet up with her at some point during our time there.

On the way to the station, we said goodbye to Dato, our faithful friend who sold 35 tetri soft-serve cones at the door to Hotel Meskheti, gave us alucha fruits, and marveled at Tony’s tattoos whenever Alicia wasn’t around.

The seating situation separated me from Tony, and I settled into the back row next to an older man who was cradling a sleeping toddler. After half an hour of silence, the man turned and began speaking to me. I replied with her best version of “I don’t speak Georgian” (in Georgian… so contradictory and confusing to the hearer, when you think about it) but then I realized he was rattling off country names and was trying to guess if I was Russian or German. He seemed very surprised at the answer, since Georgia sees very few visitors from the U.S. He asked another question, but I had no idea what he was saying, so I threw out a bit more information, that we were turistuli, shtatia Iowa. I didn’t have the words to inquire about his own health or current events in his life, so I smiled dotingly at the child and said bichi? He confirmed that yes, it was indeed a boy. Ok, then. Having exhausted our respective foreign vocabularies, we sat in contented silence for another long stretch of road, until the man pointed out the window.

There, along the banks of the turbulent, muddy river that the road had been following through the mountains, was a tow truck and a dozen men. They looked only mildly concerned about the task before them: hauling out a jackknifed semi truck and trailer that was half submerged in the swift current. The heavy thunderstorm that had blown through last night might have put it there. By the looks of the cab, the driver had likely escaped serious injury, but by such a narrow margin that a change of trousers was certain.

It was only then that I realized our driver’s rate of speed had been bordering on reckless the entire time. And of course, the sleepy-eyed bichi was not in a car seat. Cue recollection of travel mortality statistics. How had we become so accustomed to this new state of normal in less than two weeks?

At long last, the driver rolled to a stop in the center of Kutaisi. Then another strange and disorienting thing happened. After years of avoiding it at home, we were mysteriously unable to resist the glow of the golden arches that promised shiny clean restrooms and free wi-fi. And cheeseburgers.

After a few days in Kutaisi, we decided to visit Gelati Monastery which is a few kilometers up a steep hill from the city center. We headed to where the marshrutkas park, a block from the brand new fountain, behind the renovated theater building.

The new fountain in Kutaisi

After looking at all the destination signs in the windshields, we located the one that said გელათი. My alphabet studies were really starting to be useful now that we were responsible for our own navigation. The driver pointed to his watch to indicate he’d be leaving in about 30 minutes, so we climbed in, only to find all the seats taken. The van was full of women who stopped their conversations and eyed us as they clutched their bags of produce from the bazaar. A middle-aged woman screwed the cap back onto her Coke and tucked it into her purse, which also contained a buff colored chicken.

We hopped back out and looked at the driver, not knowing how to ask… not sure exactly what was expected of us… should we wait for the next one? Did he know that all 14 seats of his marshrutka were full? He gestured and waved and smiled and we decided that meant we should get in anyway. We returned to the now totally silent vehicle, giving the ladies sheepish smiles. The pullet breathed out a low, uncertain warble that rose at the end to form a question. I don’t know what’s going on, either, little friend.

We stood and clung to a railing installed the length of the ceiling, and the space continued to fill as the departure time neared. By the time the diesel engine rattled to life, I counted 29 souls. I tried as best as I could to angle my hips away from a sweet grandmother’s face, and the only relief from the stifling heat was the spot was where a teenager’s cellopani bag of fresh fish was pressed into the crook of my knee.

As the giant clown car rumbled up the hill, the chicken resigned herself to reality, pulled her lids half up over her glazed eyes, and rested her head on the black patent leather purse handle. The woman absentmindedly stroked the tail feathers that were poking out the top of the bag and I allowed myself to imagine that she purchased it with the intention of making it a treasured family pet. The red Coca-Cola label contrasted with the soft feathers that were gilded by a midday sunbeam… but getting to the camera was neither practical nor appropriate.

We lost passengers along the way, but most departures required up to one-third of us to untangle enough to hop out the side door, then Tetris our way back in. By the time we got to Gelati, it was just us and a Japanese woman who was touring the Caucuses solo, with not much more than her own determination and the intermediate level Russian she had studied.

Frescoed walls of Church of the Virgin, Gelati Monastery

Fresco detail, Church of the Virgin, Gelati Monastery

Gelati itself was impressive, but I’ll probably forget the faces in the 900-year-old frescoes and the lay of the green valley below. What I’ll always remember is the smell of tomatoes and overripe strawberries mingled with stale sweat and slimy fish scales. And that chicken. I’m sure it’s happily clucking in a yard behind a large metal gate in the outskirts of Kutaisi, catching grasshoppers and napping in an afternoon sunbeam.


A young chicken in Leliani

Two videos of marshrutka rides!