R&R on Otres Beach

King Sihanouk’s funeral was going to bring an estimated 1.5 million visitors, including major foreign dignitaries and security forces, to the capital.  It sounded like it might be really interesting, or maybe just a huge headache.  Since we had already seen the King’s 100 day memorial ceremony, and we were already planning to spend some time down on Cambodia’s coast, we left Phnom Penh and waited it out on a beach near Sihanuokville (a port city named after… guess who).

Everythang's lounge chairs

pink rock

Tony at the office

Welcome mat


We waited it out all right.  For 13 days.  Maybe that was a little excessive…


Our bungalow


Bamboo Shack

Red snapper's snappers

…but when you’re in a little hut a few meters from warm blue water, all the days start blending together in a good way.

Between the fish tacos at our place, the amok (Khmer curry) and coconut shakes at the cafe next door and the laid back and friendly people around us, there was really no reason to leave.

We read a lot of books. Tony finally conquered this one. (Hi Pete!)


We might have turned a few shades browner.

A few shades darker

A very handsome fellow

Warm water, tasty food, plenty of lounge chairs… did we mention there were puppies?

Black puppy

Here is Alicia’s face when she sees a puppy walking towards her.

Puppy sighting

(This is the puppy.)

Beach pup

The sunsets weren’t too bad either.

Yellow sunset

Fishing boat at sunset

People walking dogs at sunset

So yeah, 13 days on Otres Beach. We finally dragged ourselves away because we knew that the last “big” sightseeing event of our year of traveling was up next.  Otherwise, we might still be there.

Mar 2013



Seeing Sarajevo


We met some fellow American travelers (so far a less common animal) and a few Australians (they’re everywhere!) when we met up with Jasmina to see the airport tunnel. We spent the rest of the day visiting the now-indefinitely-closed Bosnian National Museum, sampling a pint at Sarajevsko brewery, and wandering the hilly neighborhoods of Sarajevo.


Walking up the hill

It was a long, relaxed, full day.  And what can make you feel quite so right with the world as a puppy?

one fuzzy puppy

(Answer: two puppies.)

two puppies

The puppies followed us, and a few blocks later we met a guy named Fudo who told us that the puppies were called Brownie and Blackie. Naturally.



Hilly neighborhood

cat graffiti

Sarajevo Brewery

Later that night, we discussed important sociological issues like the merits of in-home hookah usage.

Sarajevo hills

Martyr's Cemetery

Sarajevo had a serene, subdued feeling to it, at least during the week we spent there. It was easy to see hints of the worst of what was, but there was a definite flow of life moving on. It’s difficult to describe.

Sarajevo street

Yellow VW Beetle

Pigeons swarmed Sebilj Fountain.

Sebilj - the fountain in Baščaršija

Cafes filled and emptied day after day.

Giannini Cafe

Ladies who lunch

Dogs were walked.  Sometimes they had ice cream.

dog eating ice cream

Parliament and the Holiday Inn, buildings that would have seen engulfed in flames on nightly newscasts less than two decades ago, stood shiny and whole.


Holiday Inn

Ammunition boxes found a new purpose as beer garden seating.

Ammo boxes

Eid, the end of Ramadan, arrived so quietly, we hardly noticed.


And the Miljacka River, shallow from a summer of no rain, crept past the Latin Bridge.

Franz Ferdinand bridge

Hello, and goodbye, beautiful Sarajevo. We were lucky to have met you.

Oct 2012